4/21/14

Bahamian Passages - Cat Cay, Great Harbor, Paradise Island, and Finally Exumas!!

After much angst waiting for cold fronts to move out and a good SE/S wind, we were finally able to narrow down a date for our Gulf Stream crossing.  Decided to move NE to Rodriguez Cay on Friday April 4th (Fred's sister Janet's Birthday!), anchor out and make our crossing on Saturday April 5th.  Cats Paws and Rhapsody finally sailing again after 12 days in Marathon on a mooring!  Sailed the entire day and then about 10 miles from  Rodriquez, we received the dreadful call from Rhapsody - their fuel tank was leaking ( a small trickle but source could not be detected).  Unfortunately they had to make the most difficult decision and that was to head back home to Marco!  We could not believe this happened-we were all shell shocked!  Many memories were made together over the last month, and we were fortunate to have spent that time with them in Marathon (including a bus trip to Key West which in itself was very memorable!) Miss you Rock and ML!!   We anchored at Rodriequez Cay at 5:00 and jumped in to clean the bottom (we had 12 days of barnacle growth that slowed our speed significantly (at least a knot slower).  With a solo passage ahead of us, we decided to reach out to other boats and were able to connect with "Slow Down"  who also came up from Marathon and was anchored with us.  Plan was to leave 3:00 am to cross and arrive in daylight.  So we did this, Cats Paws and Slow Down crossing the Molasses Reef to the deep blue water in total darkness - thanking God for gps!  Seas were lumpy but smoothed out as the day progressed.  We sailed close hauled at 6 knots across the Gulf Stream with 15 knots of  SE wind, and arrived in Cat Cay Yacht Club Marina at 4:00 pm flying our quarantine flag.  We checked in with customs at 5:00, and then raised our Bahamian courtesy flag!  So beautiful to see the water colors change to crystal blue and see the bottom in over 25 Ft!  Here we met Bob and Linda on Soul Asset (they arrived just after us).  We joined them for dinner and became cruising buddies (nice to have another boat cruising with us).  The next morning both boats departed at 4:00 am to travel across the Bahama Banks to the Berrry Islands.  Sailed on to Great Harbor in the Northern Berries - 76 miles, and arrived at 6:15 pm.  This was a very charming island with so many friendly people and a beautiful sugar beach.  We walked for 2 miles on the beach with no one in sight except for a lost dog who followed us on our entire route.
The locals in Great Harbor greeted us with their hospitality, offered rides, shared conch fritters, arranged a cruisers pot luck dinner with free run punch and music, bocci ball games, and filleted freshly caught snapper for us.  Thanks for the fun time Meeko (loved our peas and rice song we composed) and Kimberly (for the ride to Batelco)! Stayed in Great Harbor through Wednesday April 10th, waiting out a second cold front.  On Thursday we departed for Nassau but the wind and seas were too rough (blowing over 25 knots and 6 ft+ seas) so we tucked into an anchorage behind Bond Cay for the night (inside the banks along the eastern Berry Islands).  Next day after listening to weather, we took off for Nassau and reserved a slip at Atlantis!  The course was 31 miles SE across New Providence Channel.  We were able to motor sail close into the wind and waves ( waves 6-8 ft and very choppy), and finally arrived in Nassau Harbor  by 4:30.   As we sailed into Atlantis resort we were totally impressed!!  So hard to believe we were here and able to enjoy everything it had to offer including the aquarium and water park -which we did the next day!  A lot of fun and glad we were able to stop here!  Sunday April 13th ( ML's birthday), we left Atlantis and headed for the Exumas - finally reaching the Bahamian Out Islands that evening and moored in Warderick Wells which is located within the Bahama land and sea park.  The water was so inviting - I jumped in with my snorkel but soon scurried to the ladder when I saw a small shark under the boat!!  I attempted another try to get a better look at the shark but when it started to move toward me that was it!!!  The next day we arrived in Great Guana Cay - Black Point where we finally met Scooter ( Peter and Chris' boat) and Rocky and ML (they flew in)!! So good to see them again!! Enjoyed the village of Black Point and took in the beautiful scenery as we walked the uninhabited beach. Continued our journey to Georgetown stopping at Darby Cay on Tuesday (stayed here when we vacationed on Scooter many years back).  Pete and Chris who cruise these waters year after year, took us to some popular snorkeling sites.  We saw a really cool baby grand piano with a mermaid on the bench - it was sunk by David Copperfield just off of Rudder Cay.  As we continued to snorkel here and watch Pete dive for fish,  we heard him yell shark - get out of the water!!!  He was face to face with a massive shark!! We all swam as fast as we could to the dinghy, trying to get our finns off, pushing ourselves up in the dinghy, and falling on top of each other.  Pete followed as fast as he could - said it was the biggest shark he had seen here and described it as a Bull Shark!!!  We were all scared!  Next day we progressed down the Exuma Sound to Georgetown and arrived just before sunset.  We spent almost a week here exploring Stocking Island and the many beautiful anchorages near Georgetown.   Easter Sunday know here as Resurrection Sunday was fabulous.  Although it started with rain sqaulls we were able to tuck in close to the harbor and dinghy in for Easter mass at the historic Anglican Church - St Andrews.  The sermon and gospel choir were outstanding - it lasted 3 hours but it didn't feel long at all.  We had dinner on the beach enjoying delicious Bahamian fish with peas and rice - an Easter tradition as well as mac and cheese (so good).  This week starts the Bahamian Family Regatta which is held every April in Elizabeth Harbor.  Pete Dawson (Scooter) will be racing!!  We will stay for some of this popular race and then weather permitting work our way north.  Beaches are gorgeous, watercolors are spectacular, and people are wonderful.  We are living our dream!!!

Me and Meeko

Sugar Beach - Great Harbor
Nassau Harbor - View of Atlantis from Cats Paws

Cats Paws Docked At Atlantis 

Exuma Passage

Cruising with Scooter to Georgetown
Me and ML at Chat & Chill Beach

Fred and Pete 

Exuma Sound Coast - Great Guana Cay